Freezing cold weather can wreak havoc with your heating system. One common problem that we see time and time again is a frozen condensate pipe. The condensate pipe leads waste water away from the boiler and down a drain. Most are fitted internally but, in some cases, they have to be fitted outside, which can cause the pipe to freeze.
What is a condensate pipe?
Condensate pipes are found on condensing boilers. If you’ve had a new boiler fitted since April 2005, then your boiler will be condensing (this is when condensing boiler regulations were introduced). Anyway, the job of the condensate pipe is to move wastewater away from the boiler and down a drain. This wastewater is acidic and is made as the boiler recycles heat from the flue gases. This increases efficiency and is why all new boiler installations must be condensed.
Why do condensate pipes freeze?
Outdoor condensate pipes are exposed to cold temperatures during the winter. This can cause the water in the pipe to freeze and form a blockage. At this point, the boiler will lock out to stop wastewater from building up and flooding. To help prevent the condensate pipe from freezing, the Heating & Hot water Industry Council (HHIC) advises running the boiler at a higher temperature. This will lower the amount of condensation that forms, reducing the chances of the pipe freezing. However, this does mean that the radiators will be hotter and you’ll be paying more for the heating, so remember to turn the boiler thermostat down after the extremely cold weather has passed.
Finding the condensate pipe
The condensate pipe is the only plastic pipe at the bottom of your boiler. The others are all metal so finding the condensate pipe shouldn’t be too much trouble. This pipe will lead outside and come out of the wall fairly low down, right above a drain.
Spotting a frozen condensate pipe
Before thawing a frozen condensate pipe, you need to ensure that’s the cause of the fault. In many cases, your boiler will display an error code. But if your boiler doesn’t, then it can often be recognised by a gurgling noise coming from your heating system. If your boiler has been working well up until a period of below-freezing temperatures, then that’s a strong sign that the condensate pipe has frozen.
How do I thaw a condensate pipe?
If your condensate pipe has frozen, don’t worry. It can be sorted in a few steps without having to contact a heating engineer. Before you start, find the blocked part of the pipe. That way, you know you’re thawing out the right part of the pipe. Most blockages happen if there’s a bend or dip in the pipe. Once you’ve located the blockage, there are several ways that you can unfreeze the condensate pipe: Hold a hot water bottle, microwaveable heating pack, or warm cloth around the frozen part of the pipe. Pour hot water over the frozen part using a watering can – don’t use boiling water as it could cause the plastic pipe to melt. Watch out for any water on the floor as it can quickly freeze.
After unfreezing the pipe, you might need to reset the boiler to get it going again. Some boilers will do this automatically so it’s best to take a look in your boiler’s manual for the next steps. If you have any doubts or don’t feel confident enough to unfreeze the condensate pipe yourself, then you should call Christy Plumbing at 01234 325620.
How to prevent a frozen condensate pipe
There are a few ways to help prevent your condensate pipe from freezing over in the first place. Take the following steps into account as we enter the colder months: Use foam pipe insulation to cover the condensate pipe. Leave your heating on overnight to keep the condensate pipe warm; and Turn the thermostat up to a higher temperature to reduce the amount of condensate (but watch out for hot radiators).
Boiler condensate pipe insulation
By insulating the condensate pipe, it will help to prevent it from freezing. This can be done yourself and condensate freeze protection kits are available, but you can always contact Christy Plumbing to carry out the insulation.
Frozen condensate pipe error codes
Several boilers will display an error code when the condensate pipe has frozen to make you aware of the issue. Use the table below to find out the error code your boiler will display.
If your boiler manufacturer isn’t listed above, look in the boiler manual or Christy Plumbing to check things over.
To save on a call-out charge, during times of below-freezing weather, your modern condensing boiler may have a frozen condensate pipe. Below please find notes on how to defrost your condensate pipes. Remember to keep safe while doing it.
Try these video tips relevant to your boiler manufacturer. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zlb_3I61wu0 Ideal Boilers https://youtu.be/UF4deX65Ors Worcester Bosch https://youtu.be/6hM-gZb88a4 Viessmann https://youtu.be/FcWsCAs7XXY Baxi Potterton If this does not work call us on 01234 325620. There will be a charge for any visits.
Whether it’s to replace old, broken tapware, for an update to a space or part of a renovation, selecting tapware can become overwhelming quickly. With so many options and styles available, here are some key things to consider.
1. Style & Mounting
Before starting to look at the taps themselves, it is important to think about and understand the style of the space your tap is going to go into. Are there other components (such as door knobs or towel rails) within the space that you would like to match the tap to? Is the room design traditional or contemporary? Will your tap be installed on the wall, vanity benchtop, or basin?
If your space is of a traditional or heritage style, tapware with curved, rounded edges is a great place to start. Three-piece tapware sets are most common within these spaces. For contemporary and minimalist styles, chunkier, straight-line, square edge and architecturally designed mixer taps are on trend.
2. Colour & Finishes
Expressing your taste or creating a specific feel in a room has never been more achievable. With so many colours and finishes in the tapware market, there are options for whatever look you’re planning towards. Many contemporary models often also have matching pop-up plugs which can become a statement in itself.
At all major tapware retailers you will find timeless chrome, heritage-inspired brass or gold, plus a variety of modern brushed metallics such as nickel, gunmetal, and rose gold. Don’t forget the very trendy matte black!
3. Size & Height
There is nothing worse than turning a tap on and the water splashing out of the basin. To ensure water stays contained when taps are switched on, ensuring the spout is set high enough to comfortably wash your hands under but not so high that it creates splash-back is key.
The height of your tapware set may also need to work around other components such as above-bench basins or mirrored cabinetry. Consideration should also be made for how the tap is going to be used. Is there enough room around the tap to turn the tap on and off? Are there children in the household that may also need to reach the tap? Will under-bench pipework take up too much storage space?
4. Water Efficiency Rating
Investing in quality tapware not only means the condition of the taps will last longer, but it also allows property owners to consider what water consumption the tap will use.
Check out the product data that is advertised with the tap, it will tell you the flow rate and its water efficiency.
5. Retrofit or renovation?
Before you buy that tap you love, it’s a great idea to speak to a qualified plumber to make sure it will fit in the planned space. Understanding whether your tapware change will be a retrofit or renovation will assist with narrowing down what tapware you can select from and install.
What is a retrofit? A retrofit is where a new tap is installed in place of an existing tap spot. Depending on where the tap and pipework is located, a similar type of tap may need to be installed. If the style of tap you are hoping to install is different to what is currently installed, additional renovation works can be considered and undertaken.
With over 37 years of experience with renovating bathrooms, our team of skilled and qualified plumbers can offer you the best advice and assist you through all stages of replacing your tapware for all jobs big and small.
For full details on our tap repair or replacement services, call 01234 325620 For full details on our renovation services, info@christyplumbing.co.uk
When it comes to choosing the best place to position a central heating thermostat there are a few general dos and don’ts that can affect how well your heating system works. Obviously, you DO want to put it in as convenient a place as possible, but you DON’T want to position a thermostat in a spot that could potentially cost you money and see your home’s heating work overtime. So we’ve put together this quick guide to help you make sure your thermostat is in just the right spot to do its job properly. But first, what are central heating thermostats and how do they work?
What Is A Central Heating Thermostat
A central heating thermostat is a set of controls used to regulate the output of your heating system, to make sure a comfortable temperature is maintained. Heating thermostats work by monitoring the average temperature of your home and sending a signal to a boiler to ensure it’s never too hot or too cold. You can manually set the temperature to a level you like and the thermostat will click into operation to get it there, and when that temperature has been achieved the thermostat will switch off the heating to ensure it doesn’t go above the level you selected. If the temperature of your home drops, the thermostat kicks back in to inform the boiler it needs to fire up and raise it again. Since thermostats sense the ambient temperature, their position is very important, because external factors could affect the temperature of a room and give a false reading. So where should and shouldn’t your thermostat be positioned?
What’s The Best Place To Position A Thermostat?
Do Place Your Central Heating Thermostat
On an interior wall
Placing your thermostat on an interior wall will give a more accurate reading because they are a better indication of the average temperature of your home. External walls are often much cooler, so the thermostat will tell the boiler to warm the house up when it might not need to.
In a frequently used room
We all want the rooms that we use the most to be at the most comfortable temperature. So it makes sense to install the thermostat in a frequently used space like the living room so that it is just the right temperature all year round.
Near the center of your home
As we mentioned earlier, the thermostat measures the average temperature of your home. And what is another word for average? Middle or center! So the middle of your home will give you the most accurate average reading since it will measure the centrally circulating air.
5ft above the floor
Heat rises, so if your thermostat is very high up the wall it will give you an inflated reading and tell your boiler to cool the house down. About 5ft above the floor is the most common place to install your thermostat for an accurate average reading.
It is a good idea to avoid placing your thermostat in the following areas as these volatile zones are subject to other heat sources and extreme temperature variations.
Don’t Place Your Central Heating Thermostat.
Above a radiator
In direct sunlight
In the kitchen
Near windows or doors
In the hallway
Above air vents
Whether it’s a cold draft from the front door or a blast of heat from the oven, a consistently up and down temperature will confuse your thermostat meaning your home won’t reach the comfortable set temperature and could potentially waste energy.
Should The Thermostat Be In The Coldest Room?
We would not advise putting the thermostat in the coldest room as this would not be a true reflection of the temperature of the rest of the house. You want an average reading for it to work efficiently so placing it in the coldest part of the house would be an extreme cold air temperature zone to avoid. If the thermostat senses cold, it will think that your entire home is just as cold. So it will tell your boiler to work harder which could increase your heating costs. For the same reason, the thermostat shouldn’t be placed in the hottest part of the house. Putting the thermostat in a very warm room tells the sensor that the house is too warm and so the boiler turns the heating down when you might not want it to.
Should The Thermostat Be Upstairs Or Downstairs?
Since heat rises, the upstairs rooms will often feel warmer than the downstairs rooms. So an upstairs thermostat might think your entire home is getting too warm and start cooling it down. Instead, we would advise placing your thermostat in a centrally located downstairs space that is used often, like the living room.
What About TRVs?
TRVs, also known as Thermostatic Radiator Valves, do a similar job to your room thermostat, hence their name. So, if you do have TRVs in individual rooms, you will need to avoid placing your thermostat in the same room as them – or at the very least quite far apart. This is to ensure that they don’t compete with each other to increase or decrease the temperature.
What temperature should I set on my thermostat in winter?
During wintertime in the UK, most people set their central heating thermostat to 20°C. This will make sure that your home is comfortable and warm throughout the coldest time of the year.
Where Should A SMART Thermostat Be Positioned?
If you have a SMART Thermostat, make sure it is positioned in the range of your Wi-Fi and that it has a strong connection. Also, keep it out of the way of anything that might block the sensors such as behind a door or cabinet.
So, after all that technical thermostat talk let’s go over the bits you need to remember to control your heating effectively.
There are 4 key points to remember when choosing where to position a central heating thermostat –
Place it in the centre of your home.
On an interior wall.
Aim to position it about 5ft above the ground.
In a room that you use a lot.
If you find the sweet spot, your thermostat will consistently give an accurate average reading to ensure your central heating system runs efficiently and keeps your entire home at a comfortable temperature. Courtesy of John Lawless
Homeowners do not realise the problems that can occur when doing the simplest of projects. When things go wrong, as they do on most projects, both the homeowner and the contractor lose. For the homeowner, the money they save is eaten up by having to pay for the additional labour the contractor incurred. The contractor might have a tough time collecting payment for the extra hours incurred because the homeowner is unhappy, and they run the risk of damaging materials that someone else purchased (like cutting the base of a cabinet to accommodate plumbing pipes).
We charge up to 20% on materials and consumables we supply, and we understand that owners want to know why we need to charge a markup on the materials. Owners believe that they will save money if they buy their own materials and just hire a contractor to install them. Owners may have shopped around and are convinced they know exactly what they want and where to get it. They found the store or warehouse with the best prices, and they know exactly where and how they want it installed. They have heard (or they know!) that contractors are pirates. They figure if they supply the materials, they will not have to worry about you tacking overhead and profit on those materials. How hard can it be to find a part for a toilet? It is also fuelled by suppliers who encourage owners to buy their own materials. They would rather make the sale to the customer standing in front of them than hope the contractor will come back to buy from them.
That is why homeowners want to purchase their own materials. Now let us look at what they expect from their contractor. They will furnish the materials, and the contractor will not only install them but also guarantee them. They expect the contractor to install them in a good and skillful manner, regardless of the kind or quality of the materials supplied. Additionally, if their materials do not fit or look right, the contractor will need to tear them out at the contractor’s expense and put in new materials the owner will furnish as soon as they can get them to the job site. The Contractor will be expected to just shut down the job while they wait.
If, during the tear out of the owner’s materials, the contractor damages something, the contractor will be expected to fix or replace the damaged item at their expense. Sometimes the contractor will be expected to give a credit off the final bill because of the aggravation caused to the owner. Or worse, they will decide the contractor cannot be trusted so they order the contractor off the job and hire a “competent” contractor to finish it. The contractor will be expected to pay the difference and get poor reviews on social media. These scenarios may seem laughable but over 35 years we have been down this road many times. We do feel that potential clients need to be educated on what their responsibilities will be when they furnish their own materials.
If there are any problems with the materials you purchase, you will be responsible for not only replacing those materials, but also any surrounding or attached parts that might have been damaged or destroyed. Additionally, you will pay more than twice for the labour; you will pay for the first install, for the removal of the first install, then for the second install. All the risk regarding the materials is the owner’s. If there are delays on the works due to items not arriving or coming damaged, you will need to pay the contractor for loss of earnings. Anything to do with warranties or guarantees with the products you supply will be your problem to sort out.
If clients want a labour only job then why not just go down to the job centre and find a plumber there? But no, the client wants YOUR labour because you are the one with training, qualifications and a good reputation. And for all that experience they still want to pay you like the babysitter or ask you to work for cash and knock off the VAT which is illegal.
If the contractor provides both the labour and the materials for the job and guarantee it as they should or as required by the manufacturer, any expense for repair or replacement is the contractors.
Owners need to know the time that will be involved in getting all the parts together. However, owners think that “supplying all the materials” means telling you where they can buy the materials. And do they really mean ‘all the materials’ how about the screws, the silicone, the plaster? Clients tend to mean the big-ticket items and not the essentials and are looking for the contractor to bear the cost of those.
The client must get the parts, bring them to the work area, haul them upstairs or through tight places without damaging anything, check for missing or damaged parts, get them returned and replaced without holding up the job. If the contractor must be cancelled, you may be charged for this aborted work and find it difficult to get the contractor back within a good timeframe due to other work commitments.
Invariably when the owner supplies the materials it ends up costing them more and puts everyone in risk of a job dispute. If the materials supplied by the owner are of inadequate quality, and then cause damage to the property, the owner needs to claim off their insurance, resulting in increased premiums.
Any mark up on materials a contractor makes covers things like; insurance, staff training, paying someone to answer the telephone, vehicles, tools and so on. If a client really wants to pay labour only, they still expecting that labour costs to include the purchase and use of tools and consumables. So, it is not really labour only ever, is it?
The addition of a number of coloured radiators being held in stock by Stelrad at its National Distribution Centre to be delivered within 24 hours of the order has been so successful that the company is adding to the range of coloured radiators available from June this year. Within both the Vita and Softline Series, the new Silhouette Concept will be available in stylish Anthracite Grey.
“The addition of coloured options from stock has been well received,” says Chris Harvey, Head of Marketing at Stelrad. “We’re seeing the numbers of orders increasing week on week and as a result has decided to meet the demand from customers by adding to the range available in both the Vita and Softline Series.”
To paraphrase the famous quote by Henry Ford, that you could ‘have a Ford car in any colour so long as it was black’, radiators have traditionally been available in any colour so long as they were white. But over the past couple of years, the demand for coloured radiators has been on the up and Stelrad has been happy to respond to the new trend with multi-colour options available for a number of their products.
“It’s clear that radiators are being seen by many as part of the décor in a home rather than simply as a heating appliance,” continued Chris. “We are seeing far higher sales of the decorative and designer radiators we manufacture here in the UK and alongside this, we’re seeing the trend for coloured radiators very much on the rise. We anticipate seeing significant increases in sales of coloured radiators in the months ahead.”
Call us to order and fit your Stelrad. 01234 325620 or info@christyplumbing.co.uk
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